HyperCams & Mods

Dual Filter System used by most newer model DSLRs.Canon and some Nikons.

2011-06-14T11:39:00.001-04:00

Here is a link to my latest price list and info on modifications.
http://www.mediafire.com/?a1zq212pa1opplp

If you have any questions, please email me at DSLR_HyperCams@yahoo.com
Thanks,
Brent

on with my latest post!
8^)
This is an image showing how the Dual Filter System of your newer Canon models works.
This is applicable to any cam from the 400D and newer!(so, XTi,XS,XSi,T1i,T2i,T3,T3i,40D,50D,60D,7D,5DmII,etc,etc)

The front filter is the stock IR/UV Block filter.
If it stays intact after modification, why on earth would you want to spend big $$$ on a replacement filter that does the same thing???

You can install a Baader, AstroDon, Astronomik, or even a CLEAR Glass filter in place of LPF-2, and they will all perform EXACTLY alike. period.
The only purpose an LPF-2 replacement has is to keep AF calibrated. That is it.

Hope you find this useful!!And do not let ANYone tell you "you HAVE to buy the AstroDon filter because it is sooo much better"..Baader/AstroDon/Astronomik, doesnt matter. If they work just as good as a $30 Clear Glass filter, why spend 3-4x the cost??
In fact, most 'branded' filters I get come very dirty, and are impossible to get perfectly clean(the way I like my jobs to be), so I end up returning them.

Case in point, I have ~150+ clear glass mods out there, and ~300+ Baader type mods, and every single camera performs exactly like the others. for both AP and daytime!!

Cheers!

Price list for Baader Products!

2011-03-22T01:12:00.006-04:00

HyperCams & Mods is now a Dealer for Baader Planetarium!
So, we are bringing you savings in equipment now in more ways than just very economically priced DSLR modifications!

Check it out!(just save and paste in your browser, cant get a link to stay active..not sure why not..)
http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/oOOITSyE5nRr3HnbgdqfiHQvU4kMLGS8qH_IcIOqMNSYJyrTxeqMNb52PesGYYOkSLriE-FIIFeJ9WEpGS0Ikw/HyperCams%20Customer%20Baader%20Price%20Sheet.pdf

To order, simply respond via:
PM: on CloudyNights.com, username: nofxrx
or by Email: DSLR_HyperCams@yahoo.com

Prices include shipping in CONUS!
Paypal orders will incur a +3% fee!
To save on Paypal fees, I will gladly accept personal checks/MO's/etc!!(my address is below)

I only have a very limited quantity in stock of some items, so most items will be drop shipped at time of order. This will NOT add much time to the order process at all, maybe a couple days!! Shipping will always be via USPS Priority Insured!

If you have any questions at all, please ask!
Thanks,
Brent Oliver
HyperCams & Mods
(321)720-8222
977 Spring Street NW
Palm Bay FL, 32907
DSLR_HyperCams@yahoo.com

T2i lands at my door!!

2010-11-15T05:15:00.007-05:00

My latest toy has arrived!!!
So far I am loving the camera.Far superior to any Rebel I have used before, and I really dont even miss my 40D!!!!

Here are some pics taken with my, also new(to me), Sigma 10-20mm F4.
Here is my favorite. Our Ozzie just getting some air. He doesnt love the "cool" weather(for Florida) as much as the heat, but he still enjoys it.. 8^)

And here are the girls sitting patiently in the car..completely different personalities..lol

And some others.
Here is the sunset with a reflection on the roof of the car.

More to come...especially when school is done. I should have some time then to really test this gear out!!

Cheers,
Brent

TEC mod recent developments and pics!

2010-05-14T14:56:00.017-04:00

So I have been pretty busy with school.But have been able to spend a bit of time TEC modding a good friends XSi. It is nearly complete(just need to learn how to braze the two copper pieces together,and then reassemble and it will be done!!)

This is NOT the finished product,or the Tutorial to build this mod that I will be posting VERY soon...this is mainly a guide to see what the finished mod could look like,and how it will operate..

Lets start with a semi completed view of the back of the cam

Here you can see how the TEC Assy is put together,and also how small it is in comparison to other mods on the net.this will still deliver ~20-25degC cooling!!

Here you can see the Battery Grip and how it is used to channel the wiring from all the TEC components,and house the main power port(serial) and the new USB port location.

New Battery holder cut to size

Here is the Cold finger and how it will be mounted..the finished product will have a bunch of other stuff..

That's all for now folks..
Check back later for full details,and the tutorials,and the performance specs!!

Cheers.
Brent Oliver

IT IS NEARLY HERE,DIRECT FILTER REPLACEMENTS FOR Canon XS/XSi/400D/etc...GET IN LINE NOW!!!

2010-03-18T17:11:00.002-04:00

This new filter comes straight from a VERY reputable company,Edmunds Optics.
It is a direct replacement for the Canon DSLR's that take the FBCF-400D Baader filter.
Models,
400D,450D,500D,550D,1000D,40D,50D,and the new 7D!!!!
It is a direct replacement made from HIGH Quality Schott Kg1 Glass w/IR Blocking coatings.
It has nearly 95% transmissions accross the visible spectrum,and at 656nm(Ha) it has an amazing 88% transmission!

I am taking pre-orders for this filter...they should only be several weeks away,not months like the "other guy's" filters..

Price for filter is $75 plus $7 shipping in CONUS,or $12 Internationally.

Please use email brentiferolivarius@yahoo.com for all Paypal orders,please add 3% if using Paypal with CC.
Contact info:
DSLR_HyperCams@yahoo.com
Brent Oliver
977 Spring Street NW
Palm Bay FL,32907
(321)720-8222

If you have ANY questions or concerns..or would like me to modify your camera for better spectral response on DSO targets.Please contact me however you like,phone or email.

****If you are unfamiliar with this mod,just google the Baader Filter Mod and how much Ha signal is lost with the stock IR cut filters in DSLR cameras****

Do you need your XS,XSi,or T1i,T2i,7D DSLR modified for Astro Imaging? Well,I HAVE THE SOLUTION TO ALL THE WAITING ON THE BAADER FBCF-400D!!!!!

2010-03-08T01:58:00.004-05:00

The time has come...
The time for relying on one or two vendors to supply us with the needed IR blocking replacement filters for our Canon XS,XSi,T1i,T2i,7D [color:red] IS OVER!!!!
I have found a comparable,actually a better quality filter, from Astronomik. It is an IR block filter,or Luminance Filter,it is readily available,can be ordered from dozens of vendors,NOT JUST TWO OR THREE like with the Baader's, and it is the exact same thickness as the stock filter..AF WILL BE PERFECT!!! GAURANTEED!!!!

SO...if you have an XS,XSi,T1i,T2i,or 7D you have been wanting to mod,or get modded...look no further..
I HAVE THE SOLUTION!!!!!!

Prices for:
Stock filter removal:$75(same as before)
Replacement Filter installation Labor:$25
Filter Costs:$100

TOTALS IS $200(+$15 return shipping)

If you are interested,please PM me here...or contact info below!

Thanks for everything,and take care!!
Brent Oliver
HyperCams & Mods
DSLR_HyperCams@yahoo.com
(321)720-8222

MORE INFO:
http://www.cloudynights.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/3415311/page/0/view/collapsed/sb/5/o/all/fpart/1

AAAAHHHHHAHH $$$$$SSHHH!!!!!!TT!!!

2009-11-26T02:04:00.000-05:00

Well,
I have done it....I have proven that the other mods of this type are NOT getting very good cooling results,infact,they are getting MILD cooling results.I am basing this off of my findings below.But,to be frank,everyone knows that no matter what you can get the cold finger's temp down too,the sensor is STILL at a different/usually higher temp...

For my test,I had JUST finished(I mean complete)Heatsink back plate..
With the cold finger installed,the peltier installed,and the fans installed,I was ready for a test...
WELL,...blah.....
~6degC drop.....SHIT..
I had to swap out my fans(that were to be on the back)to these giant 10k rpm monsters,TWO OF THEM,on the back of the heatsink/backplate,I was only ablt to get ~7-12degC drop at the end of the cold finger.
I am using a fairly powerful unit that is:
33.4watts,4amps,15.4volts....
It is actually a VERY nice comprimise between the HIGH energy,HIGH dollar ones,and the small,worthless ones..

I already have it figured out though....
Yep,the minute I saw that I could not get anywhere near +25degC drop,I fugured it out...and I confirmed it by removing the peltier from this setup,and installed it on a decent PC HeatSink and turned it back on.....
Average room temp: ~28degC
After ~2min
Average temp on the cold face of the Peltier: -2 to -4degC
WOOOOHOOOOO!!!!

SO,what does this mean?
Well,it means that this is going from a simple mod,to a WHOLE NEW CAMERA.
I am going to have to extend the pins of the CMOS to ~20-25mm.put a Peltier behind the sensor,and some sort of heat piping system,or use the new wires for the sensor,and mount it at an angle perpedicular from the sensor,and put the heatsink right upto the peltier.

This is going to be by far the biggest hurdle yet.

Dont get me wrong.IT IS POSSIBLE TO USE THE COLD FINGER SYSTEM.
BUT,you are going to need MASSIVE peltiers,MASSIVE Heatsinks,AND A MASSIVE amount of power!! We are talking well over 10amps.
I dont know about any of you,but,if I can ever get out to a dark site,I will not want something that is going to run down the marine batteries that you use to power the mount,laptop,cams,FW's,focusers,atc....

I am trying to kep the BODY and the POWER consumption WAAAAY down.
I am shooting for being less than 2 to 2.5lbs.
I am trying to keep the power supply TOTAL amperage less than 6-7amps.

I have a REALLY clean and easy way of removin the sensor pins from the PCB board on the back..
I just need to figure out how to extend it,with what material,how long before there is some kind of interference..etc,etc,etc,

ANYWAYS.My friends.It seems that the body will stay the same(I hope).But the sensor assembly will change quite dramatically...
THis will be the same for the XSi.But,for the T1i,I am not certain yet...
I have done a couple of filter mods..But have not studied it to see how I would do a hyper mod..

Anyways,this puts a damper in my holiday cheer....but,oh well.
Practice and perseverence will help us prevail!!!

Happy Holidays....dont eat tooooo much...LOL

Brent

More progress....

2009-11-14T23:54:00.000-05:00

I was able to put about 4 hours into the cam today now that family has gone home...

I welded the support brackts onto the heatsink...

Started to map out where the power/USB adapters and PCB will go on the cam...

I sealed the entire cam with clear silicone...

I put in some great weatherproofing soft foam that will act as a dew shield by keeping parts of the cooling system covered and free on condensation....

I have drilled and tapped all the support brackets into the body,and for the heatsink...

I started mounting the fans on the backplate...

I installed the cold finger into the sensor assembly..

I have cut my copper "finger" that will go between the Peltier and the backplate to evenly distribute/dissipate the heat into the aluminum heatsink..

I painted the inside of the cam FLAT black.And will also line the optical window area with more of the black insulating/weatherproofing foam..

I need to:
Finish the heatsink assy by tapping the remaining screw holes.mounting both fans.and attatching the new sensor and cold finger assy.

Build the small PCB that will mount to the cam frame inside and will hold the attatchments for the USB lines,and the 7v,12v,and15v supply voltages.

Drill the optical path hole.I am thinking of using an 1.25"round drill bit for this...might need to play with a couple differentsizes..I might go with a size just under the inside diameter of the Canon Bayonet base..

Need to attatch the Bayonet adapter.Which will require the use of the push button pin for the locking in of the lenses...this might be a little challenge...

I need to build the power supply box.I am going to make these out of the plate aluminum that I had originally purchased for the cam housings.
I would use a simple Radio Shack enclosure,but want something that looks a bit nicer.
This will be ~10"Lx5"Wx3"H.Will need a fan,probably ~60-90mm,for cooling of the components.

I am sorry for the type of post...I know it seems more like a "to do list" than a Blog update...
But,I think it was about time I actually sat and thought of what needs to be done yet......
And we are having absolutely perfectly clear/cool nights right now...
I just know that the day I complete the cam..it will be shit weather for a month...
I hope not.Knock on wood...

Cheers!
Brent

Finally have a HeatSink/BackPlate.....whew..

2009-11-11T21:13:00.000-05:00

With a lot of sweat and patience..I finally have myself a decent heatsink/backplate for the mod.
I am going with the backplate as the heatsink just like ALL Astro CCD's have...
I do not know why others with the Hyper Modded DSLR have the huge heatsink sitting off to the side and gives them a weight/balance issue,AND,it takes up WAY more space..
This design is going to still be useable for the Hyperstar syste,...the other Hyper mods will not work because of the placement of the components..

So,here are a couple more images of the progress..

Cheers!!!!!!!
Brent

Here is a comparison of housings...

2009-11-10T20:11:00.000-05:00

This is a comparison of the boxes I was building,welding,and grinding/smoothing..next to the $2.99 Aluminum Project Box from Radio Shack!!!!

I know it is not the prettiest enclosure in the world,but it doesnt make any sense to waste hours trying to perfect the building of my own enclosure..

It is a VERY tight squeeze so far.But that is kinda what I was hoping for..to utilize all the area as best as possible...now,I just have to figure out where the power and USB connections will go.. :)

Brent

Here is some chat with some friends on the Yahoo Group about possible names/models/etc for the cams..

2009-11-04T23:31:00.000-05:00

To: AstroKnots@yahoogroups.com
From: brentiferolivarius@...
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 2009 19:32:29 +0000
Subject: [AstroKnots] Re: Dslr Blog

Terry,Thanks man!!!

I wasnt even thinking of your XSi.....lol.
I was told by my dad that he wanted to buy me a Canon for my venture.I said "XSi all the way!!".. 8^)
But soon I will be able to let you know when a good time to ship yours should be...

I will take a look at the Blog and see why you couldnt post a message,but I am pretty sure only members of GoogleBlog can do so.
Which,it is super easy and FREE too!!!!!!!!!!

Also,as far as names for the CAM...I am still tossing around a couple ideas.
1) would be a simple numeric key that would indicate the resolution in megabpixels,and also the ADC bit rate..
ie:XS:10-12
XSi:12-14
Etc,

OR,use the Hyper name(which is what the Mod is called)AND the numeric key..=
SO,the XS: Hyper10-12
The XSi: Hyper12-14
T1i: Hyper15-14
etc..

Or,I could still use the Hyper name,but make a numeric key of my own variety/design...:
XS: Hyper Model X(roman 10!)
XSi: Hyper Model Xi(slightly more advanced tech,with 14bit ADC,and 12mp...)
T1i: Hyper Model XX

OR?????

I could definately use some suggestions.Anyone want to have a go at naming the cams? 8^)

Maybe,the ICE series... Hyper ICE-10(XS),Hyper ICE-12(XSi),Hyper ICE-15(T1i),Hyper ICE-FF21(5DmII)....

Cheers!!!
Brent

--- In AstroKnots@yahoogroups.com, Yan Ouk wrote:

Hi Brent,
I will suggest CF12000XSi and CF24000A850 (Cooled and Filtred for Astro photography)
It look like the stl11000

Regards,
Yan

To: AstroKnots@yahoogroups.com
From: brentiferolivarius@...
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 2009

Yan,
I like it!

Before I start replying about the model names,I wanted to make a few things clearer...or atleast get my ideas out of my head in a way that maybe you guys can start to wrap your head around mine,or something like that... 8^)

1)Yan sad in a previous post that maybe the next models could have the heatsink/fan on the back of the cam to allow the use of HyperStar attatchments without creating those wierd halos around the brighter stars...
The ENTIRE backplate is the heatsink,and TWO 60mm fans will me mounted to them.They are only ~15mm tall,so it still keeps total size down.This back piece is 180deg from the faceplate,or in parallel with the faceplate,but with ~50mm between them(the depth of the cam,not concrete yet...)
The entire footprint of the cam as seen from the front ONLY,is 3"wide,and 5.25"long..it is CLOSE to the nize of a normal DSLR,but it is rectangular.It wil not have the massive cooling system hanging off the side like in the Central DS models,or even like Gary Honis' cam..

Total size(ballbark guesses as of this moment,besides the physical size,that will be VERY close to these #'s):
3"W X 5.25"L X ~2.2" H. That doesnt include the backplate,which will add atleast ~15-20mm from the fans and any overlap that I need.

2)Yan suggested You a truly inovative way to cool things,like CCD's,like in the newest Astro CCD's.You have a small "Cold plate" attatched to the back of the sensor.Actually,it is attatched to the Peltier,which is mounted to the back of the sensor.The plate has several copper tupes,or Heat Pipes, coming out of the plate and get connected to another copper plate,the "Hot Plate".on one side of this hot plate will be your heat dissipation devices,another Peltier connected to a simple heatsink and small pc fan,or larger(heavier,like the STX,STL,and even ST models have EVER been LIGHT!!)Heat sinks to draw the heat out.
OR,
You could have the heat pipes that get mounted to a block the has small water type fittings on them.You have an IN pipe and an OUT pipe,you basically want to create a "re-cirulation" of fluids,with the end result being that these fluids take away the heat,which would produce cooling on the sensor.They do this by using several chemicals,like 98% Iso Alchohol,and water,and antifreeze(this is the homebrew version..lol).You keep these chemicals in a small bin that sits in your frezzer.You put this bin into a cooler filled with ICE(so that the freezing liquids do not warm up too much..).Drop a small submersible pump,and you are off and cooling VERY efficiently.
The liquid would go through the inlet tube which can split into several tubes,or stay just one,it all depends on how far you really want to go...
Then the liquid passes through the cold plate,which is actually quite warm,like ambient temps warm. It "takes away" the heat and replaces it with feezing temps.After just several circulations the system becomes stabilized and you can begin imaging with the cam.You can control how much cooling you wish to get by simply slowing the speed of the pump,and/or raising the temps of the cooling liquids.

This kind of system,while state of the art,is VERY expensive to design,build,and SET UP EVERYTIME you want to go snap some images of the heavens...
IMHO.It is not worth it.
BUT,I do know that "I" would like to test my theories and designs someday,and may end up offering it as a seperate package,eventually giving every model the heat blocks and pipes and hose fittings,like what SBIG does.

Anyways,
Thanks to Yan for helping me become a little more clear on what my endgame goals are..thanks buddie!!

Alright,time for the NAME GAME....if you name my cams I will give you.......MY....FIRST BORN!!!! LOL
I AM kidding...
Yan,your ideas are very ingenius...making it more comparable to the higher end CCD cams out there.....BUT,that raises a question with what I am ACTUALLY marketing these things for...which is the guy who wants a cheap(er) alternative to a OSC Astro CCD..the guy going from DSLR imaging,wanting to get into CCD cams,but is unsure if the format(SW,etc),equipment,etc will be easy to transition into..enter my mod service/cams...send it to me and I will make your DSLR useful for more serious imaging.Taking the DSLR format,that thousands of people love to use,learn on,and who EVENTUALLY get into the serious side of AP with high $$$$ CCD's....well,why not spend a couple extra hundred bucks on the DSLR that will provide you with nearly the same performance as something like the ST4000...or the SX-M25C,QHY8,etc..
LIKE performance,I can only say that my system will be LIKE thiers,HOPEFULLY.Until I have had eveidence I will not sit here and say "My cams will kick thiers cam's butts"!!!! :P:

SO,if I try to "mimic" the Starlight Xpress format(SX-,or SXVR-)..maybe I should be thinking of something like:
XS: HyperCams Model X10C
XSi: HyperCams Model X12C
T1i: HyperCams Model T15C
5DmII: HyperCams Model D21FFC

OR,I could Abbreviate the "Model"...
I.E.:
HyperCams MX10C
HyperCams MX12C
HyperCams TX15C
HyperCams FF-D21C

OR,
With the use of the "Abbriated Model" Format and the SBIG like formats(ST-,STL-,STX-)...
I.E:
XS: HCM-X10C
XSi: HCM-X12C
T1i: HCM-T15C

OR,go FULL ON SBIG..

XS: HCM-10MC
XSi: HCM-12MC
T1i: HCM-15MC
5DmII: HCM-21FFC

I think I am liking this last set.......
What about you guys!
THanks Yan for the inspiration!!
I like your ideas as well,but am trying to think of how best to market these..and I think(actually,PRAY!!) that most will be bought by beginners to intermediate APers looking for the absolute best performance out of a system that starts well below $1k!!(USD)
Well,I havent finalized prices yet because the jury is still out on how much each mod/cam will cost me.

I am also thinking of selling this as a "KIT".I would sens the customer everything they need to turn thier own DSLR into one of my Hyper Mods...
But,that is still up in the air since there might not be any revenue to gain from it..but,if I break out even on those,and get 100 happy users...word of mouth is a great tool when it is in your favor!!!!

So much to think about AFTER I get done...shoot,I should get back to work..especially now that I have the famre almost squared away and the housing is done except the backplate/heatsink....

GREAT Night to all!!!
Brent

Hey all you(2..lol) followers,got any ideas? I would love to hear them!!!

D'oh!!!!!!! What a doof........another forehead slap...

2009-11-03T21:20:00.000-05:00

WELL,
Guess what!!!

I have been building housings in my "workshop" for ~3 weeks,each time getting better and better and getting the case more square and the welding lines are much better...
SO,about 2 months ago I bought a small(ish) aluminum project box from Radio Shack.I set it on one of the work benches and forgot about it because I was going to use it for the power supply case..
WELLL,GUESS WHAT!!!!!
It IS THE EXACT SAME SIZE AS THE BOX I WAS TRYING TO BUILD....
I have been wasting time,money,and everything else..I have like four more 12-24" aluminum sheets,that I dont need now..
ALL I have to do is go on Ebay and buy the Radio Shack boxes..
AND,it works out to being the same cost for materials,but the hours put into the "handmade" boxes is just nowhere near worth it...

SO,now that I have a PERFECT housing,this mod should take off...I expect it being done by the end of this month.

I will still have to make the back plate,which will act as the heatsink(just like the Meade DSI's),but other than welding these new boxes seams to seal the box airtight,that is all I need to do.
So now I can work on the various frames for each model Canon.
I have also figured out a way to build this mod for the REVERED 350D!!The 400D as well!!!!!

All in all,I am exstatic that this turn of events will work in my favor,but am still a tad upset that I have been wasting time...

I do have a serious procedure coming up at the middle of December..I am getting a Fusion on two levels of my lower back.
So,I want to have the mod done and working before then so I can be working on website building,marketing,research-&-troubleshooting the cams,and if I am feeling well enough,getting some images with the cams.

I am very happy too that the new housing will only need to be polished to be a finished product.I am thinking this will actually look quite nice.Of course the inside will be flat black to reduce/eliminate any internal reflections.
I am still working on how best to seal the cam's front,behind the Canon EOS adapter.I am thinking for now a simple UV Filter will work well enough.But for future models I am thinking that a 2" Baader IR-Block filter will work best...and will be a good selling point.

I am possibly getting a new XSi from my Father,and will hopefully have both the XS and XSi models working in the next 3 weeks.
If I dont get it done I will only be out for ~2 weeks...but I would REALLY love to get these made by X-mas...it would be a great stocking stuffer(yes,they are that small!!!!)....

Anyways,I have copied this message onto my Blog.

Thanks for reading this loooong message..

Cheers!!!
Brent Oliver
HyperCams & Mods

The Base....

2009-10-26T20:37:00.000-04:00

For my mods I am taking the VERY popular Canon DSLR's and turning them into even better AstroImagers.

I will start with the lowest models.The XS,XSi,and T1i will all share the same housing.They will utilize slightly different frames,but the housing will be the same.

After I get these models out I will start on what I like to call "The Big One"...lol
I will be using the Full Frame CMOS sensors in the Canon 5DmII as the base for this VERY sensitive camera. It will be my biggest challenge in this venture..but will also be my finest work..
It will not be easy..but I cant wait till I can own a OSC 35mm Format Cooled Astro Cam.

The housings and frames will all be made of high grade aluminum. The back plate will act as the heat sink.And a fan,or two smaller fans,will be mounted to this backplate. This will allow the Peltier,inside the cam,to dissipate the heat more efficiently,and will allow for even more cooling performance.

Cheers!
Brent

1st Post.....

2009-10-26T20:04:00.000-04:00

Well, what to start with?
Why not start with WHY this type of mod is useful,and why you should want it.
A DSLR is a fantastic camera.They have the versatility of being able to use a huge variety of lenses,and they also have profound,and unmatched image qualities.
A "stock" DSLR is one that is "straight outa the box". These are perfect for capturing wonderul moments that we want to remember.Or for the professional trying to get the best possible image out of an event,person,place,or anything they can think up.
For those reasons, poeple started using these brilliant cameras for imaging the stars.
But,there are disadvantages with using these "stock" cameras.
1)The sensors in these cams are VERY sensitive to a broad spectrum of light,some that we cannot even see,like InfraRed. But,the image that would come out of these sensors would not be the prettiest picture.So,to make these sensors see more like the Human eye does,the manufacturers install a set of filters in front of the sensors.These filters block the spectrums of light that are "unwanted",this makes them image the way we want them to...like how WE would capture them with a memory.
These filters are NOT good for Astronomical targets as these objects are rich in various wavelengths that would make normal photography look "washed",or ruined.
So, we decided to remove these filters.This allows the sensors to pick up every wavelength that its designs allow. This makes astronomical objects brighter in most of the spectrum because of the amount of signal able to reach the sensor.
But,there is also another disadvantage...
2)Noise. Noise is the bain of Digital Photography. Digital Sensors create an image out of electrons,but the circuitry of these digital cams can dreate heat/or noise in the image. Typically,the longer the exposure,the more noise. And,in astro imaging,long exposures are key to getting the most signal.But this builds noise.

So,enter the Astronomical Camera. These are very sensitive instruments that use cooling elements to keep the noise at bay. Typically,these cameras are VERY expensive. Most people can not afford cameras of this caliber..that is why people use the much cheaper,but still very sensitive,DSLR.

So,what would the next logical step be for progressing in this hobby?
If you move past the abilities of a DSLR,but cannot afford the price of a dedicated Astro camera...why not cool the DSLR?

Enter the "HyperMod".
There are many levels of this idea.Some simply wrap thier DSLR in ice packs. Others simply put there DSLR in homemade "cooler boxes". While these are very good ideas...the are not the most efficient,nor are they creating that much of a difference in the sensor's temperature.

So,I and several others out there have started building "HyperCams".
Some are simply puting a "cold finger" behind the sensor. The other end is connected to a Peltier device(TEC),this draws the heat out of an object and through the peltier to a heatsink of some kind. Some maintain the use of the stock camera housing.Others,like myself, have/are making a NEW housing for the camera electronics. Inside these new hoisings will be a Peltier device that will cool the sensor to a very workable state..some even below freezing.

My Mod will include a new housing.A cooling system that will deliver ~30degC(below ambient) temps. It will be operated by way of USB2.0 connections. It will essentially,not allow noise/heat to build in the image.

I have the designs for my mod on paper and in my head.I have started building the housings. I have started my dream job...
Who can say they are taking thier life's favorite hobbies and making something of it.
I do not want to be a millionaire..I do not want to be a major corporation.
I just want to build cameras for astronomical imaging.That is my dream..

That is my "mission statement" as it were..

Thank you for taking the time to read this..I hope you find it useful.And I hope you return to see the progress I will be making.

Brent Oliver
HyperCams & Mods